Monday, September 29, 2008
Monday, September 8, 2008
Eight Hours with Hannah
I popped in The Secret Spot around quarter of 9 yesterday morning where I put away a breakfast burrito to fill up for what would likely be a full day of surfing. Hurricane Hannah brought waves that peaked around 7 and 1/2 feet, and were barreling sporadically throughout the day. I have never ridden faster, more terrifying waves.
It was not a good day for beginners, and yet they were out there too. I talked to a couple different people who were both out for their 3rd time ever. I now realize how crazy I must have been to be in their place 2 years ago when I started. When Ernesto and Florence brought head-high waves to Massachusetts, I remember waiting outside the breakers after an exhausting paddle out only to drop in on a handful of waves that would each instantly chew me up and spit me out.
I surfed for 8 and 1/2 hours with a break for lunch at The Secret Spot again. By 5pm my shoulders and back ached like I had been in boot camp all day, ordered to do 1000 push ups and spend 3 hours inside a salt filled washing machine. I managed only a handful of good rides throughout the day. I guess I've got a lot of learning to do on the big waves. Still, National Geographic is predicting a "well above average" hurricane season this year, so there's no doubt I'll be out there tearing it up on my new 6'6".
It was not a good day for beginners, and yet they were out there too. I talked to a couple different people who were both out for their 3rd time ever. I now realize how crazy I must have been to be in their place 2 years ago when I started. When Ernesto and Florence brought head-high waves to Massachusetts, I remember waiting outside the breakers after an exhausting paddle out only to drop in on a handful of waves that would each instantly chew me up and spit me out.
I surfed for 8 and 1/2 hours with a break for lunch at The Secret Spot again. By 5pm my shoulders and back ached like I had been in boot camp all day, ordered to do 1000 push ups and spend 3 hours inside a salt filled washing machine. I managed only a handful of good rides throughout the day. I guess I've got a lot of learning to do on the big waves. Still, National Geographic is predicting a "well above average" hurricane season this year, so there's no doubt I'll be out there tearing it up on my new 6'6".
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)